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As travel books go this
is a gem, the true tale of a determined and courageous man’s
solo walk across Africa, from the Skeleton Coast in Namibia
to Bagamoyo on the coast in Tanzania. A mere 3,000 miles!
Why? Well read the book and you’ll find out and be thoroughly
entertained at the same time.
Fran Sandham sets off from Namibia’s Skeleton Coast armed
with ambition and determination, and a strong desire to
follow in the footsteps of famous explorers such as Livingstone
and Stanley. And an unfeasibly heavy backpack! His determination
to follow his planned route has him scrounging a lift into
the depths of the Skeleton Coast National Park (note the
skull and crossbones!) and walking back down along the coast
to the place he started from, with many a choice encounter
on the way. Having then set off inland the infamous backpack
proves too much and he opts for the idea of purchasing a
donkey to share the load, and there follows many weeks of
hilarious experiences with the local characters and wildlife,
Tsondab the donkey (fondly remembered!), Marieke the mule,
all culminating in the decision to discard as many material
possessions as possible and go it alone! |
When he finally
manages to make some progress across Namibia he brings his
experience to life in his writing, with wonderful descriptions
of changes in scenery and wildlife. Outside the towns this
part of Fran’s journey is rather devoid of people, excepting
a few quirky encounters. He must of course be very fit but
I love the way that whenever he gets a chance he smokes
like a chimney, drinks large amounts of alcohol, stuffs
his face with junk food, tries (unsuccessfully) to chat
up girls, and is generally very funny and self-deprecating.
I like the way he’s so open about his cravings and fears,
a good example of the latter being walking through the Caprivi
Game Reserve (still in Namibia) where lions, elephants,
and crocodiles abound and he did an involuntary fosbury
flop when he nearly stepped on a big puff adder.
Having eventually crossed Namibia Fran is excited as he
enters Zambia and reaches the next huge landmark of the
Victoria Falls. His various physical ailments are starting
to become a feature, and in fact it is here that his whole
body seizes up in protest for several days. Not a bad place
for that to happen! His sandals also start to fall apart
and at various points on the journey he amuses and horrifies
us with stories of how they barely survived, along with
his feet. Zambia heralds more people and it becomes clear
that Fran is a great observer of our species, and a genuine
and humorous affection for Africans develops. Despite that
though it becomes increasingly difficult to camp in peace
what with all manner of wildlife and chance encounters with
nearby villagers or even robbers.
When Fran crosses over into Malawi I (the reader) realise
that I’m learning a lot about the geography and culture
in this part of Africa, which is a great bonus. It is on
the way to Lake Malawi that Fran almost gets stuck again
in Lilongwe, although he has the excellent excuse of needing
time for his feet to heal, but the lure of drink, smoke,
and living life in a haze becomes a welcome diversion for
a while. Still, the lure diminishes quickly and he’s very
happy to get back on the road again. And so we progress
to the beautiful Lake Malawi and then into Tanzania and
the long trek to the coast. I am becoming increasingly worried
about Fran’s health by this time but incredibly he made
it, although sadly Malaria hit when he was recuperating
in Zanzibar.
This book is a must. It’s exciting, fascinating, hilarious,
reflective, and illuminating. I thoroughly recommend it. |